Squaing the endsI prefer to use a table saw to square the end and cut the board to length although a table saw with a miter gauge will work as Spot weld tip removal tools Suppliers well. Square the other edgeNow that you have one edge prepared it is back to the table saw to rip the board to width. Following the directions included with your table saw start the blade and make the cut, being sure to use a push stick.Step 4: Truing the second faceThe thickness planer is by far the best tool to accomplish this. Conclusion:You should now have a board that is 30" x 4-1/2 " x 5/8" with all four sides square to one another.. Remember to feed the stock with the grain to ensure a smooth clean cut.Step 3: Truing one faceNow that your piece of stock is the rough size needed it is time to true up one face. With the marked edge against the table saw fence rip the board. It is best to place the cupped face down since it will site better on the jointer table. Now measure 30-3/4", the rough length, and square off the board using your framing square. This is referred to a milling a board four square and is a pre-requisite to any wood working project. Always refer to the . Taking more wood per pass will overwork the machine and give results that are less than optimal.

Once you are satisfied that the edge and face are square to each other mark the edge for reference. This board needs to have all four edges square to each other. Any wood worker needs to Introduction:This tutorial assumes that you know how to safely operate your power tools.. Be careful to cut on the waste side of the line. Any wood worker needs to take a board from the lumber yard or their local sawyer and make this board a uniform thickness, length and width. Once the second face is true and parallel to the first continue to plane the board until it reaches the finished thickness, in this case 5/8". Set the rip fence so it is 4-3/4" from the blade and set the height of the blade so the gullet of the teeth are the same height as the stock. Check that your miter saw is cutting a true 90 degrees and when you are sure it is trim one end of the board, taking as little off as possible. Set the jointer fence so it is exactly 90 degrees to the table and be sure the cutting depth is set to 1/16".

In this example we will mill a board 30" x 4-1/2" x 5/8" with all for edges square to each other.This is best accomplished by using a jointer, thickness planer, miter and circular saws and a table saw. Set the fence 4-9/16" (1/16" larger then needed). Step 2: Rip to rough widthThe table saw is the best tool for this cut.There are a number of methods that will work for milling a board square, however I have always had good luck using this method. and make the second cut the same way you made the first. Always refer to the manufacturer instructions if you are unsure how to use your tools.. Analyze the board to determine the direction of the grain and whether there is cupping.Make the cut using a circular saw being careful to make a fairly square cut. tutorial assumes that you know how to safely operate your power tools.Milling Four Square Lumber Hobbies  Square one edgeBack to the jointer for this step. if you are unsure how to use your tools. Be sure the end isn't checked (cracked) and if it is square the board off just beyond where the cracks end. Be sure that the jointer is set to 1/16". This is best accomplished with the jointer.

The thickness planer guides the board and makes the second face exactly parallel to the first. On the jointer it is simple to get the second face true but it is quite difficult to get it parallel to the first.Step 1: Rough cut your stockRough cut your stock to 30-3/4" x 4-3/4" and maintain the same overall thickness. . Run the board through for a couple of passes until you have a uniform face free of voids and dips. Now return to the jointer and make one final pass, milling the new sawn edge. Article Tags: Four Square, Thickness Planer, Second Face. Determine the direction of the grain and place on face against the jointer fence and make a pass through the cutter applying steady pressure against the fence. Now measure the finished width of 30" and make the cut taking care to cut on the waste side of the line. Start by selecting a piece of stock larger then your finished size (obviously) and use a framing square to square off one end of the board. As always with the jointer it is advisable now to take more than 1/16" per pass